That’s why in these cases, washing every other day is generally the move, Dr. Graf says. This guideline depends on a few factors, though: Some extra-greasy strands might benefit from a daily cleanse, for instance, while curlier ones should actually be shampooed less often (more on that later). But for fine, straighter hair types, any more than that can potentially strip the scalp of too much sebum. And that, ironically, can trigger it to overcompensate for the dryness by producing even more oil.
Just as important as how often you lather up is what hair products you use for the job. According to Dr. Graf, it’s best to steer clear of ultra-thick, heavy ingredients (argan, coconut, and olive oil can all weigh down fine hair) and opt for lightweight, volumizing shampoos and conditioners with hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and keratin, to name a few. These help maintain fullness and add a desired oomph.
If you have thick or coarse hair
Your scalp’s moisturizing sebum doesn’t travel as easily down thick hair as it does on finer strands, according to Pooja Rambhia, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City, tells SELF. For that reason, she says you can likely get away with washing less often (as in, twice a week).
Of course, if you’re someone who sweats a ton, or just likes a more frequent hair cleanse, by all means, do what you want—you have more wiggle room thanks to your sturdy strands! It might just be helpful to ensure you’re keeping your ends moisturized, which a conditioner with hydrating coconut oil, argan oil, or shea butter can definitely do.
If you have oily or greasy hair
Sebum might keep your scalp moisturized, but in excess, it can also be the culprit behind an unwanted, slimy-feeling sheen. To manage this, the experts we spoke with recommend adjusting your hair care routine to wash daily or every other day. (In between, a trusty dry shampoo can be a lifesaving, instant refresh.)
When it comes to your shower regimen, it’s helpful to introduce actives that absorb or break down oil. Dr. Rambhia suggests looking for these in clarifying shampoos that often contain exfoliants like salicylic acid to clear away sebum and other debris. (Just keep in mind, these should only be used once a week. Otherwise, you might dry out your scalp.) You can also opt for charcoal and clay-based formulas that’ll sop up excess oil sitting on your head. Another pro tip from Dr. Graf: “Using a scalp scrub occasionally, like once a week, can break up and remove buildup.”
On the flip side, be extra careful with thick cream-based hydrators (like coconut oil and dimethicone). While they’re game-changing for dry, brittle hair (more on that next), they tend to build up and make an already oily scalp feel even slicker, Dr. Rambhia warns.
If you have damaged or dry hair
Damaged hair—perhaps a result of years of flat ironing, curling, or bleaching—can show up in the form of breakage and frizzy or split ends, so it needs all the moisture it can get. That’s why all three derms recommend limiting your wash frequency to just once a week (since “overwashing can strip the hair’s oils,” Dr. Spann explains). Instead, focus on repairing those brittle strands with the help of hydrating, conditioning heroes.
