If you’re curious about kojic acid, give these derm-approved serums a try—many of them contain other hyperpigmentation-reducing ingredients like niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and the aforementioned antioxidant hero vitamin C.
4. Soy
Soy extract, which is derived from the soybean plant, has also been shown to improve hyperpigmentation, Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, tells SELF. That’s why you’ll find it in tons of skin-lightening products. Essentially, soy works as a dark spot corrector by preventing melanin (pigment) from being transferred from melanocytes (color cells) to keratinocytes (skin cells), Dr. Zeichner explains.
How to use it: Apply to dark spots in the morning and at night after cleansing and before moisturizing.
This nourishing night cream from Aveeno is a solid option not just for treating dark spots but for reducing dullness and blotchiness overall.
5. Azelaic acid
This lesser-known ingredient is one of the top dermatologist-recommended treatments for facial dark spots. So what is it exactly? “Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring extract from oat, wheat, or rye that interferes with the production of abnormal pigmentation,” Dr. Zeichner explains. Essentially, like hydroquinone and kojic acid, it inhibits tyrosinase, reducing excess pigment as a result. Plus, Azelaic acid also has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which means it can treat acne as well as help fade the hyperpigmentation blemishes may leave behind.
How to use it: Apply it all over your face once or twice a day; you can use it alone or with your favorite moisturizer.
6. Lasers
Lasers are the most expensive dark spot treatments on this list, but derms say they’re also the most impactful. “They use a focused beam of light that targets, breaks up, and eliminates the pigment particles in the skin,” Dr. Cook-Bolden says. CO2 and Fraxel lasers are two of the most common in-office treatments, but the best one for you will depend on your unique skin and needs—and the wrong one could cause unwelcome side effects like severe irritation and increased hyperpigmentation—so it’s important to consult a board-certified dermatologist first to stay safe, Dr. Camp adds.
“IPL [intense pulsed light] can also treat unwanted pigmentation,” Dr. Cook-Bolden says. “However, it delivers less focused light than lasers and may cause burns and discoloration in the surrounding skin, especially in darker or tanned skin.” So, yep, it’s best to talk to a derm before trying IPL too.
Cost: $250–$2,500
What to expect: Anticipate as many as six treatments (possibly more) with three to four weeks in between. And in case this wasn’t clear, only get laser or IPL treatments from an experienced board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon.
7. Chemical peels
Exfoliating treatments like chemical peels remove dead skin cells, revealing the newer, glowier ones underneath, Dr. Jamal explains. “Over time these treatments can stimulate collagen production, encourage skin-cell turnover, and reduce the appearance of dark spots,” he says. Common active ingredients in professional-grade peels include glycolic, mandelic, salicylic, and lactic acid. While you can buy at-home peels, these products are more likely to simply slough off dead skin rather than penetrate deep enough to lighten hyperpigmentation, Dr. Jamal adds.
