Ask any dermatologist what the best wrinkle-reducing ingredient is and we’re willing to bet our firstborn they’ll say retinoids. But there’s a gentler, slightly more under-the-radar alternative out there: Derms also love peptides for their skin-smoothing benefits (namely, their ability to minimize lines without causing irritation). If retinoids like retinol and tretinoin are the Regina George of skin care, then peptides are the Cady Heron—more chill, nicer to your face, but still totally worthy of being the star of the show.
The benefits of peptides are legitimate, with plenty of science to back them up. And while dermatologists often recommend them as a substitute for retinoids, particularly for people who can’t tolerate the latter, they also play nicely with most other “actives” (including, yes, retinoids, as well as vitamin C). In other words, you shouldn’t have a problem working them into your routine.
The caveat? “Peptides” is a surprisingly broad category and shopping for the best products can require a bit more legwork than you might expect. That’s why we asked a few experts to explain exactly what to look for when picking peptide serums and moisturizers—and break down the nitty-gritty of what they can do for your skin.
First of all, what are peptides?
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of various proteins,” David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York City, tells SELF. They play a key role in a variety of processes throughout your body; when it comes to your skin, peptides are important because they help make up the proteins collagen and elastin. Collagen is like the scaffolding for your skin, giving it support and structure so it stays firm, while elastin keeps it stretchy and, yep, elastic, Dr. Kim says.
Both collagen and elastin production innately start to decrease around your late 20s or early 30s, when signs of aging such as wrinkles and laxity can start to pop up. That’s where peptides come in: They can help counteract some of these effects, he explains. To that point….
What can peptides do for your skin?
Here’s where things get a little more complicated. Not all peptides are created equal. As a general rule, they’re used in skin care for their ability to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, Angela Lamb, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City, tells SELF.
Depending on the type of peptides you’re talking about, however, they can also have other beneficial effects, including decreasing inflammation and acting as antioxidants, Mona Foad, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Cincinnati, tells SELF. (There are even antimicrobial peptides that have been shown to have wound-healing properties, though they’re less likely to be used in skin care.)
Topical peptides are typically classified into these four categories, all of which you can find in serums, moisturizers, and the like (albeit some more commonly than others).
